26 Aug – Nürnberg

Our 1st monument. Imagine the size of the IKEA box it came in.

Nürnberg played a pivotal role during the Nazi era. For many reasons, it was the ideal hub for the massive Nazi rallies that were captured on film and used as propaganda for the movement.

Here, the Nazis partially-built one of the massive structures that hint at the Führer’s grand plan for his capital of Germania. Below is what was completed of the Hall of Congress. Built in the “Intimidation Style” of architecture, it purposefully draws from the Coliseum in Rome.

Here is all that was constructed of the interior of the U-shaped building–where 40,000+ spectators would have gathered to hear the Führer. Now, it is a drive-thru courtyard that has been used for concerts and exhibitions.

 This is how the interior of the Hall of Congress would have looked upon completion. All seats were positioned towards Hitler’s podium. The free-floating ceiling had a huge glass center that would fill the hall with natural light. It was to be used only once a year!

This behemoth is adjacent to Zeppelin Field where the Nazi Party rallies were staged. Today, much of the grandstand in Zeppelin Field remains including the podium where Das Führer gave his rants of inspiration.

Once backed with a colonnade from end to end, this feature was removed by the city when it began to deteriorate. The central grandstand was originally crowned with a giant stone swastika. There is a widely-viewed film of the Americans blowing up this symbol of all things evil. Grandstand Demolition

Of course, Nürnberg is more widely known as the seat for many post-WWII trials of Nazi leaders. The Court House building is still a working court. We visited notorious courtroom 600 which still contains the iconic defendants’ box where once sat some of civilization’s vilest men.


Enough of Nazis (for now). Off to the other tourist traps!

Nürnberg’s Old Town is still surrounded by its city wall fortifications–with a few roadway-width holes cut into it for modern traffic access–like our buses. We were dropped off in the broad cobble town square that has been reconstructed in its pre-war image.

After a brief tour of the town, a few pictures and a few souvenirs, we boarded the bus to return to the boat for lunch. Once fed, we were driven back to the Hall of Congress complex to visit the Documentation Center.

The Document Center shows in pictures, films, artifacts, interviews and words the entire Nazi Party reign from start to finish. Everything was made accessible via English handsets. It took two hours to work through the entire exhibit. but it was time well spent.

After that sobering visit, we returned to the ship for a lecture on the rise of the Far Right in European politics. Overall, it was a learning day.


Back to canal locks: shortly after leaving Nürnberg, we crossed the European Continental Divide (between the North Sea and the Black Sea.) To breach this height, our ship was lifted 246 feet using three back-to-back 82-foot locks.

 The boat approaches the lock entrance. We are about to be raised 82 feet.
 Beginning to enter the lock.
 Partially in, there are but inches between the boat’s sides and the concrete lock walls.
 A fellow passenger (Sarah) gazes in amazement at the enormous construct.

Transversing the first lock was celebrated with a champagne toast and the cheering, applauding and camera-clicking of the assembled masses on the Sun Deck as the enormous gate closed behind us. Water was pumped into the chamber and we began our slow and steady ascent.

 Berndt, Eva, Captain Boris Car, Marlois, Thymen and Mihai toast our crossing of the European continental divide. Prost!

And the other two 82-foot locks? By the time we reached them, it was well past most peoples’ bed times (including yours truly, MDR), so the events were “noticed” by a handful of hard-core drinkers and smokers* who occupied a corner of the sun deck with a wary eye out for low-hanging bridges.

* Oh, and Carol! We found out after we returned that Carol was awake for the second and third of the 82′ locks. She went topside for the second one…and enjoyed the third from the cozy confines of her home away from home.